I found a neat coaster pattern yesterday. I tried it with a simple design last night and they came out great. Very thick. I think I'll try it with contrasting prints next time for a different result.
Wednesday, December 31, 2008
Monday, December 29, 2008
Valentine Gift Card Holders & Mini Wallets
I am getting a jump start on my Valentine Day goodies. I've made two different Valentine print gift card holders and have another 3 prints to make also.
These are great to give as a gift card holder and the best part is that it's reusable! It can then be used as a mini wallet to carry i.d., credit cards, and more.
I have 8 available in each of these prints and like I said, lots more to make in other prints.
You can find them in any of my stores, just click over on the right for a link to my online shops.
Custom orders are always welcome!
Wednesday, December 24, 2008
Sweet Baby Quilt Pattern for Beginners
Absolute Beginners Sweet Baby 40" x 40" by Claudia's Quilt Shoppe
Fabric Requirements:
1 1/3 Yds. Color #1 (Yellow) Background & Borders
1 ¼ Yd Color #2 (Med Blue) Blocks and Binding
½ Yd. Color #3 (Lt Blue)
Crib Size Batting
1 ½ Yds Lining
Cutting Instructions:
Color #1 (Yellow): Cut 4 – 12 ½” Squares for Snowball Blocks
Cut 4 – 2 ½” Strips for Borders
Color #2 (Med Blue) Cut 4 – 2 ¼” Strips for Binding (Set Aside)
Cut 16 – 3 ½” Squares for Snowball Blocks
Cut 20 – 4 ½” Squares for 9-Patch Blocks
Color #3 (Lt. Blue): Cut 25 – 4 ½” Squares for 9-Patch Blocks
Assembly: USE A SCANT ¼” SEAM ALLOWANCE
Begin by making your pieced 9-Patch blocks (make 5 blocks) from the Blue & Lt. Blue 4 ½” squares. Refer to the illustration for piecing, or strip piece these from 4 ½” strips if you prefer.
Next make 4 Snowball blocks using the quick corner method:
Draw a diagonal line on the wrong side of a 3 ½” Medium Blue Square. Place it, right sides together on a background Yellow square in a corner. Stitch on that diagonal line, and trim away ¼” from that line. Press back. Repeat on the other 3 corners.
Make 4 Snowball Blocks
Alternating 9-patch and Snowball blocks, referring to the illustration, join 3 rows of 3 blocks each. Add borders to the sides (2 ½” x 36 ½”) and then to the top and bottom ( 2 ½” x 40 ½”).
Absolute Beginners Quilt Pattern
Absolute Beginners Big Block 50" x 65" by Claudia's Quilt Shoppe
Fabric Requirements:
1 Fat Quarter of each of 8 Novelty Prints of your choice.
2 Yds. for Sashing, Borders, & Binding
Twin Size Batting
3 Yds Lining
Cutting Instructions:
From each of the 8 Novelty Print Fat Quarters: Cut 2 - 10 ½” Squares
From the remainder of one of the 8: Cut 4 – 5 ½” Squares for the Corners
From the Sashing/Border Fabric: Cut 8 – 5 ½” x WOF (Width of Fabric)---Subcut 5 of these Strips to 5 ½” x 40 ½” (includes top and bottom border). Also cut 8 – 2 ¼” Strips for Binding.
Assembly: USE A SCANT ¼” SEAM ALLOWANCE
Join the blocks as illustrated below in 4 Rows of 4 Squares. Join rows with the 5 ½” x 40 ½” strips. Add Top and Bottom Borders with the remaining subcut strips. Piece the remaining 3 border strips end to end and subcut into two 5 ½” x 55 ½” pieces. Add Corner squares to the ends of these two strips and join
Tuesday, December 23, 2008
Christmas Log Cabin Quilt Pattern
Christmas Log Cabin Quilt Pattern
By Janet Wickell, About.com
It's a little late to make this quilt for Christmas 2008 but I just found it and thought I'd share it for inspiration to start making things for next year already instead of waiting until last minute.
It's a twist on log cabin blocks make in green and red prints.
Monday, December 22, 2008
Can we postpone Christmas a few days?
I am never going to be ready for Christmas this year it seems. I was on a roll yesterday finishing up and making a few more Christmas gifts when....BAM....the power went out. Not just a few hours either, but 12 hours! This, of course, after I did all the holiday food shopping.
Good and bad news is that is was down right cold here in SC last night. Good because my refrig seemed to stay cold enough that the ice in the freezer didn't even melt. Bad because we were COLD! We all just bundled up after the fire died down in the fireplace and we piled every blanket we had on the bed and the boys grabbed sleeping bags and comforters. The power finally came back on at 4:00 a.m.; so much for their promised 7:00 last night.
So, the last minute gifts to be mailed today will be late. I can still manage to get the local gifts finished though tonight.....all fingers crosses. :-)
Next year I start my holiday shopping/gift making in JULY!!! HA, right, famous last words.
Good and bad news is that is was down right cold here in SC last night. Good because my refrig seemed to stay cold enough that the ice in the freezer didn't even melt. Bad because we were COLD! We all just bundled up after the fire died down in the fireplace and we piled every blanket we had on the bed and the boys grabbed sleeping bags and comforters. The power finally came back on at 4:00 a.m.; so much for their promised 7:00 last night.
So, the last minute gifts to be mailed today will be late. I can still manage to get the local gifts finished though tonight.....all fingers crosses. :-)
Next year I start my holiday shopping/gift making in JULY!!! HA, right, famous last words.
Saturday, December 20, 2008
Handwarmers in the Works
Here is a preview of a pair of crocheted popcorn stitch handwarmers I'm making for a Christmas gift. Nothing like last minute! I'm just glad the recipient isn't into blogging so she won't see them ahead of time. LOL
I am using Bernat Alpaca Natural Blends in Peony. This yarn is pretty bulky so they are working up pretty fast.....whew!
I hope to have a finished update tonight or tomorrow. I still have shopping to do today. Yikes!
I will be making more of these I think to sell in my Etsy shop. This yarn is so soft and warm! If you like the preview and are interested, just send me an e-mail and we can discuss colors, etc.
Friday, December 19, 2008
Christmas Elves on Strike?
My poor boys were all confused and worried this morning. As I rushed them out the door for their last day of school before Christmas break, they mentioned only 5 more days until Christmas. WHAT?!
I looked at my dh and started rambling about how Santa really needed to get those elves in gear and end their strike. The gifts need to be done and wrapped and packed in that sleigh soon! And don't even get me started on Mrs. Claus.....
My poor youngest (he's 7) looked up at me with watery eyes and asked if the elves really did go on strike and is Mrs. Claus really mad? Oh I felt terrible. I then had to assure him that the elves would get their work done and not to worry and had to shove him out the door so he wouldn't be late for school. WHEW!
I guess Santa and Mrs. Claus better get their butts in gear this weekend, huh?!
I looked at my dh and started rambling about how Santa really needed to get those elves in gear and end their strike. The gifts need to be done and wrapped and packed in that sleigh soon! And don't even get me started on Mrs. Claus.....
My poor youngest (he's 7) looked up at me with watery eyes and asked if the elves really did go on strike and is Mrs. Claus really mad? Oh I felt terrible. I then had to assure him that the elves would get their work done and not to worry and had to shove him out the door so he wouldn't be late for school. WHEW!
I guess Santa and Mrs. Claus better get their butts in gear this weekend, huh?!
My Grandparents
Well, what can I say about my grandparents? There is plenty but where do I start?
They grew up as neighbors in WV in the early 1900's; born in 1912 and 1917. My grandmother laughs when we talk about it because she says she didn't like him at all growing up. Somewhere along the way, fate took over and they wed in 1945 on Christmas Eve. This year would be their 63rd wedding anniversary. While my dear Grandmother is still alive at a young 91 years old, sadly, my grandfather passed away in the fall of 1991 after suffering from a stroke a few years earlier.
They had four wonderful boys together; of course, one being my dad. As a child, I was lucky enough to live right next door to my grandparents from the age of 10 to 16 and they played a huge role, I think, in the person I grew up to be today.
I always think of them but with the holidays fast approaching, I am missing them more and more each day. My family lives all across the U.S. and we rarely see each other these days. The days of a crammed house full of family and friends for the holidays or just a special weekend get together are long past it seems. But the fond memories of the silly jokes, warm hugs, and laughter will forever be in my heart.
University of Pittsburgh Rag Purse
Here are some pics of my latest custom rush order for Christmast delivery. It went out this a.m. - whew!
Thursday, December 18, 2008
Palm Beach Zoo Cub Cam
My "hometown" zoo in FL has a new Jaguar cub born on Oct. 28. They have set up a Cub Cam and also posted some great recorded video. Very cute!
They are also having a Name the Jaguar Cub Contest.
Wednesday, December 17, 2008
Carbon Monoxide - The Silent Killer
I saw a story on the Today Show this a.m. and just had to share our recent experience with a carbon monoxide scare.
We moved into our new home in August of this year. The house has all electric appliances but has a wood burning fireplace.
Last Saturday, we lit the fireplace in the early evening and it went out hours before we closed everything up and headed for bed. We had considered leaving the chimney open all night but it was cold that night and we could feel the cold air coming in from the chimney.
Around 3:00, we heard what we thought was the smoke alarm going off. But we couldn't figure out why, there was no smoke in the house. To our surprise, it was our carbon monoxide detector, a device we didn't even know we had from the previous owners. It is place so high on the wall, we just assumed it was part of the security system.
We bundled up and opened all the windows in the house. Thankfully, no one felt ill at all so the level of carbon monoxide in our home must have been fairly low. Needless to say, I was sleepless the rest of the night and checking on the boys every 30 minutes.
We had a happy ending to our scare but so many others are not so lucky. Even if you don't have gas appliances but do use a wood stove or fireplace, I urge you to spend $30 or so to keep you and your family safe. Times are tough right now but the expense of this item is priceless.
God bless and stay safe.
We moved into our new home in August of this year. The house has all electric appliances but has a wood burning fireplace.
Last Saturday, we lit the fireplace in the early evening and it went out hours before we closed everything up and headed for bed. We had considered leaving the chimney open all night but it was cold that night and we could feel the cold air coming in from the chimney.
Around 3:00, we heard what we thought was the smoke alarm going off. But we couldn't figure out why, there was no smoke in the house. To our surprise, it was our carbon monoxide detector, a device we didn't even know we had from the previous owners. It is place so high on the wall, we just assumed it was part of the security system.
We bundled up and opened all the windows in the house. Thankfully, no one felt ill at all so the level of carbon monoxide in our home must have been fairly low. Needless to say, I was sleepless the rest of the night and checking on the boys every 30 minutes.
We had a happy ending to our scare but so many others are not so lucky. Even if you don't have gas appliances but do use a wood stove or fireplace, I urge you to spend $30 or so to keep you and your family safe. Times are tough right now but the expense of this item is priceless.
God bless and stay safe.
Ze Imporant French Award
Thanks to Fabrics~N~Quilts for bestowing the coveted Marie Antoinette Award on me.
Though I don't quite know all the rights & benefits this award bestows upon me, I gleefully accept! (who doesn't love an award?) Check out her Etsy store & blog!
I give you the blogs that I believe also deserve the recognition for your consideration (& checking out!)
BellaMental
baharcollection
MonikaRose Crochets
Debbie Gootter
Bran-Tastic Voyage
kindred knits
Fiber Deviant
Quilting Cafe's Brew
RULES of de game
1 Please ad the logo on your blog
2 Place a link to the person from whom you received the award.
3 nominate at least 7 or more blogs
4 put the links to those blogs on your blog
5 leave a message on their blogs to tell them they are the chosen ones
Ode to a Quilter
Ode to a Quilter, by Gloria E. Webster (with apologies to Clement
Moore)
'Twas the night before Christmas and all through the housse
not a creature was stirring except a wee mouse
and Mama in her kerchief, still stitching away
to finish a quilt for the very next day.
"I've done one for Steve and one for sweet Sue.
There's one for young Paul and my Sarah, too.
If only I finish this last one tonight,
little Mary will surely cry with delight!"
Then out on the lawn there arose such a clatter,
she jumped from her chair to see what was the matter.
"Now what's all that noise," she thought with a frown,
"I do hope the old chimney's not falling down!"
She peered out the window and what did appear
but a miniature sleigh and eight tiny reindeer -
With a little spry driver, so lively and quick,
she knew it certainly was not old Saint Nick!
And in a twinkling she heard on the roof
the prancing and pawing of each little hoof.
Then down the chimney he came, dressed all in red.
She thought she was dreaming and still in her bed!
He was clad all in fur from his head to his foot
and he called out to her, "You should clean out that soot!"
"Clean out that soot? No time to sew?
Young man, you're crazy - now go, go, GO!
I must finish this quilt before the morning light.
I've been sewing all day and most of the night."
He danced as he worked, a right jolly old elf,
and she laughed as she watched him, in spite of herself.
Then he filled all the stockings from his patchwork sack.
It was stuffed to the brim and hung on his back.
He gave a quick nod and when he was through,
smiling at her, up the chimney he flew.
Dazed, she wondered if that really might be...
"No," she murmured, "my eyes are playing tricks on me."
And grimly she put needle to cloth once again.
"Next year, truly, on January First I'll begin,
no more sewing and quilting on the very last night.
These weird dreams are too much." Then she turned out the light.
"Yes, next year I'll be organized. I'll be done on time."
("Ho, ho," chortled Santa, "Seems I've heard that line.")
Now her quilts were all wrapped and under the tree;
Of course, not all were complete - it just couldn't be.
But tucked into two boxes were notes with this line:
"To be finished after Christmas - Mom ran out of time!"
And Santa was heard to exclaim as he drove out of sight,
"Merry Christmas to all - and happy quilting each night!"
Moore)
'Twas the night before Christmas and all through the housse
not a creature was stirring except a wee mouse
and Mama in her kerchief, still stitching away
to finish a quilt for the very next day.
"I've done one for Steve and one for sweet Sue.
There's one for young Paul and my Sarah, too.
If only I finish this last one tonight,
little Mary will surely cry with delight!"
Then out on the lawn there arose such a clatter,
she jumped from her chair to see what was the matter.
"Now what's all that noise," she thought with a frown,
"I do hope the old chimney's not falling down!"
She peered out the window and what did appear
but a miniature sleigh and eight tiny reindeer -
With a little spry driver, so lively and quick,
she knew it certainly was not old Saint Nick!
And in a twinkling she heard on the roof
the prancing and pawing of each little hoof.
Then down the chimney he came, dressed all in red.
She thought she was dreaming and still in her bed!
He was clad all in fur from his head to his foot
and he called out to her, "You should clean out that soot!"
"Clean out that soot? No time to sew?
Young man, you're crazy - now go, go, GO!
I must finish this quilt before the morning light.
I've been sewing all day and most of the night."
He danced as he worked, a right jolly old elf,
and she laughed as she watched him, in spite of herself.
Then he filled all the stockings from his patchwork sack.
It was stuffed to the brim and hung on his back.
He gave a quick nod and when he was through,
smiling at her, up the chimney he flew.
Dazed, she wondered if that really might be...
"No," she murmured, "my eyes are playing tricks on me."
And grimly she put needle to cloth once again.
"Next year, truly, on January First I'll begin,
no more sewing and quilting on the very last night.
These weird dreams are too much." Then she turned out the light.
"Yes, next year I'll be organized. I'll be done on time."
("Ho, ho," chortled Santa, "Seems I've heard that line.")
Now her quilts were all wrapped and under the tree;
Of course, not all were complete - it just couldn't be.
But tucked into two boxes were notes with this line:
"To be finished after Christmas - Mom ran out of time!"
And Santa was heard to exclaim as he drove out of sight,
"Merry Christmas to all - and happy quilting each night!"
CROCHETERS’ NIGHT BEFORE CHRISTMAS
I just read this poem on a friend's blog, Bran-Tastic and just had to pass it on.
CROCHETERS’ NIGHT BEFORE CHRISTMAS
~ Author Unknown ~
‘Twas the night before Christmas and all around me
There was unfinished crocheting not under the tree,
The stockings weren’t hung by the chimney with care
‘Cause the heels and the toes had not a stitch there.
The children were nestled all snug in their beds,
But I had not finished the caps for their heads.
Dad was asleep-he was no help at all.
And the sweater for him was 6inches too small.
When out on the lawn there arose such a clatter,
I put down my hook to see what was the matter.
Away to the window I flew like a flash.
Tripped over my yarn and fell down in my stash.
The tangle of yarn that lay deep as the snow
Reminded me how far I still had to go.
When out on the lawn I heard such a noise,
I was sure it would wake up both Dad and the boys.
And although I was tired-my brain a bit thick,
I knew in a moment that it must be St Nick.
Yet what I heard left me very perplex-ed
For nothing I heard was what I expect-ed.
“Move Rowan! Move Patons! Move Koigu and Clover!
Move Shelridge! Move Starmore! Move Spinrite! Move over!
Lopi, don’t circle around, just stand there in line.
Pay attention you sheep and you’ll work out just fine!
I know this is hard as it’s just your first year
But I’d hate to go back to 8 tiny reindeer.”
I peered over the sill. What I saw was amazing:
Eight wooly sheep on my lawn all a-grazing!
And then in a twinkle, I heard at the door
Santa’s big boots stomping on the porch floor.
I rose from my knees and got back on my feet.
As I turned around, St Nick I did meet.
He was dressed all in wool from his head to his toe
And his clothes were hand crochet from above to below.
A bright Fair Isle sweater he wore on his back.
And his toys were all stuffed in an Aran crochet sack.
His hat was a wonder of bobbles and lace
A beautiful frame for his rosy red face.
The scarf on his neck could have stretched for a mile,
And the socks peeking over his boots were Argyle.
On the back of his mitts was an intricate cable.
And suddenly on one I spotted a small label:
“S.C.” in duplicate on the cuff.
So I asked, “Hey, Nick, did YOU crochet all this stuff?”
He proudly replied, “Ho, ho, ho, yes I did.
I learned how to crochet when I was just a kid.”
He was chubby and plump, a well dressed old man,
And I laughed to myself, for I’d thought up a plan.
I flashed him a grin and jumped up in the air,
And the next thing he knew, he was tied to a chair.
He spoke not a word, but looked down in his lap
Where I had laid my crochet hook and yarn for a cap.
He began then to crochet, first one cap then 2-
For the first time I thought I might really get through.
He put heels in the stockings and toes in some socks,
While I sat back drinking a scotch on the rocks.
Quickly like magic his hooks they flew,
Good Grief! He was finished by two!
He sprang for his sleigh when I let him go free,
And over his shoulder he looked back at me.
I heard him explain as he sailed past the moon,
“Next year, start your crocheting sometime around JUNE!”
CROCHETERS’ NIGHT BEFORE CHRISTMAS
~ Author Unknown ~
‘Twas the night before Christmas and all around me
There was unfinished crocheting not under the tree,
The stockings weren’t hung by the chimney with care
‘Cause the heels and the toes had not a stitch there.
The children were nestled all snug in their beds,
But I had not finished the caps for their heads.
Dad was asleep-he was no help at all.
And the sweater for him was 6inches too small.
When out on the lawn there arose such a clatter,
I put down my hook to see what was the matter.
Away to the window I flew like a flash.
Tripped over my yarn and fell down in my stash.
The tangle of yarn that lay deep as the snow
Reminded me how far I still had to go.
When out on the lawn I heard such a noise,
I was sure it would wake up both Dad and the boys.
And although I was tired-my brain a bit thick,
I knew in a moment that it must be St Nick.
Yet what I heard left me very perplex-ed
For nothing I heard was what I expect-ed.
“Move Rowan! Move Patons! Move Koigu and Clover!
Move Shelridge! Move Starmore! Move Spinrite! Move over!
Lopi, don’t circle around, just stand there in line.
Pay attention you sheep and you’ll work out just fine!
I know this is hard as it’s just your first year
But I’d hate to go back to 8 tiny reindeer.”
I peered over the sill. What I saw was amazing:
Eight wooly sheep on my lawn all a-grazing!
And then in a twinkle, I heard at the door
Santa’s big boots stomping on the porch floor.
I rose from my knees and got back on my feet.
As I turned around, St Nick I did meet.
He was dressed all in wool from his head to his toe
And his clothes were hand crochet from above to below.
A bright Fair Isle sweater he wore on his back.
And his toys were all stuffed in an Aran crochet sack.
His hat was a wonder of bobbles and lace
A beautiful frame for his rosy red face.
The scarf on his neck could have stretched for a mile,
And the socks peeking over his boots were Argyle.
On the back of his mitts was an intricate cable.
And suddenly on one I spotted a small label:
“S.C.” in duplicate on the cuff.
So I asked, “Hey, Nick, did YOU crochet all this stuff?”
He proudly replied, “Ho, ho, ho, yes I did.
I learned how to crochet when I was just a kid.”
He was chubby and plump, a well dressed old man,
And I laughed to myself, for I’d thought up a plan.
I flashed him a grin and jumped up in the air,
And the next thing he knew, he was tied to a chair.
He spoke not a word, but looked down in his lap
Where I had laid my crochet hook and yarn for a cap.
He began then to crochet, first one cap then 2-
For the first time I thought I might really get through.
He put heels in the stockings and toes in some socks,
While I sat back drinking a scotch on the rocks.
Quickly like magic his hooks they flew,
Good Grief! He was finished by two!
He sprang for his sleigh when I let him go free,
And over his shoulder he looked back at me.
I heard him explain as he sailed past the moon,
“Next year, start your crocheting sometime around JUNE!”
Big Rainbow Fish - Free Crochet Pattern
Big Rainbow Fish with Simply Soft Paints and Simply Soft Brites and Simply Soft designed by Deb Richey
TECHNIQUE USED: Crochet - Easy
FINISHED MEASUREMENTS
16” long
MATERIALS
Caron International's Simply Soft® Paints Oceana (MC) 8 oz
Caron International's Simply Soft® Brites Grape (A) 1 ½ oz
Caron International's Simply Soft® White (B) small amount
Caron International's Simply Soft® Black (c ) small amount
One size US G crochet hook
Stitch markers
Yarn needle
Stuffing - polyfill
Row counter (optional)
GAUGE
Gauge is not critical for this project, however the tighter your stitches, the less stuffing will show through.
STITCHES USED
Chain (ch)
Double crochet (dc)
Half double crochet (hdc)
Reverse Single crochet (Rev sc)
Single crochet (sc)
Treble crochet (tr)
Notes: The body of the fish is worked in rounds. At the end of each row, move a stitch marker. The fins are worked in rows. Stuff the fish as your work progresses.
Round 1: Ch 2, 6sc in 2nd ch from hook (6)
Round 2: 2sc around (12)
Round 3: (Sc, 2sc) around (18)
Round 4: (2sc, sc in 2) around (24)
Round 5-6: Sc around
Round 7: (sc in 5, 2sc) around (28)
Round 8: Sc around
Round 9: (sc in 6, 2sc) around (32)
Round 10: Sc around
Round 11: (Sc in 7, 2sc) around (36)
Round 12: Sc around
Round 13: (sc in 8, 2sc) around (40)
Round 14: Sc around
Round 15: (sc in 9, 2sc) around (44)
Round 16: Sc around
Round 17: (sc in 10, 2sc) around (48)
Round 18-21: Sc around
Round 22: (Sc in 5, 2sc) around (56)
Round 23-24: Sc around
Round 25: (sc in 6, 2sc) around (64)
Round 26-27: Sc around
Round 28: (sc in 7, 2sc) around (72)
Round 29-33: Sc around
Round 34: (sc in 8, 2sc) around (80)
Round 35-50: Sc around
Round 51: (sc in 8, sc2tog) around (72)
Round 52: Sc around
Round 53: sc in 7, sc2tog) around (64)
Round 54: Sc around
Round 55: (sc in 6, sc2tog) around (56)
Round 56: Sc around
Round 57: (sc in 5, sc2tog) around (48)
Round 58: Sc around
Round 59: (sc in 4, sc2tog) around (40)
Round 60: Sc around
Round 61: (sc in 3, sc2tog) around (32)
Round 62: Sc around
Round 63: (sc in 2, sc2tog) around (24)
Round 64-68: Sc around
Round 69: (sc, sc2tog) around (16)
Round 70: Sc around
Round 71: Fold in half, sc through both thicknesses. Finish off MC (8)
Row 72: Working in blo, join A with a sc, sc in same, sc in next 6, 3sc in both loops, working in flo, sc in next 6, 2sc in last. Turn.
Row 73: ch 1, 2sc, sc in 8, 3sc, sc in 8, 2sc, turn. (23)
Row 74: Ch 1, 2sc, sc in 10, 3sc, sc in 10, 2sc. Turn. (27)
Row 75: Ch 2 (counts as 1st dc) 2dc in same, dc in 12, 5dc, dc in 12, 3dc. Turn (33)
Row 76: Ch 2 (counts as 1st dc) 2dc in same, dc in 16, 5dc, dc in 16, 3dc. Turn. (43)
Row 77: Ch 2 (counts as 1st dc) 2dc in same, dc in 19, 5dc, dc in 19, 3dc. Turn. (49)
Row 78: Ch 2 (counts as 1st dc) 2dc in same, (dc in 22, 3dc)2 times. Turn (51)
Row 79: (Skip I, 5dc, skip 1, slip in next) across. Finish off.
Side fins: Make 2:
Row 1: With A, ch 7, sc in 2nd chain from hook and across. Turn (6)
Row 2-7: Ch 2, dc in same, dc across, 2dc in last. (18)
Row 8: Ch 2, dc across, dc2tog last two stitches. (17)
Row 9: (Skip I, 5dc, skip 1, slip in next) across. Finish off.
Top Fin: Make 1:
Row 1: With A, ch 30, sc in 2nd ch from hook and across. Turn. (29)
Row 2: ch 1, sc in 7, hdc in 15, sc in 7. Turn.
Row 3: (skip 1, 5dc, skip 1, slip in next) across. Finish off.
Eyes: Eyes are worked in rounds. At the end of each round, move a stitch marker. Make 2.
Round 1-6: With B, repeat rounds 1-6 of body. Finish off.
Center of eyes: Make 2:
Round 1-3: With C, repeat rounds 1-3 of body. Finish off. Sew to front of eyes.
Finishing: Sew top fin to top of body, Sew eyes to front of body, stuffing as you sew. Sew fins to side of body.
Fish Lips
Round 1: Ch 6, join to form a ring. Ch 1, sc around (6)
Rounds 2-36: Sc around. At the end of round 36, join and finish off. Join the two ends together to form a circle and sew together. Sew to front of fish's head.
Tuesday, December 16, 2008
DH's Quilt Preview
Monday, December 15, 2008
Philadelphia Eagles Quilt Order
Tada...it's finally done. I have managed to hit just about every quilting obstacle you can imagine with this order. I have to say it's been a true learning experience! LOL
Friday, December 12, 2008
Quilting & Kitten vs. Tree Update
I am down to my last row of hand quilting for a custom order quilt. I am "sew" excited because "Santa" brought me a new sewing machine to replace one that is broken and I can't wait to tear it open to sew the binding on this quilt. It's just sitting under the tree staring at me. LOL
My old workhorse cabinet machine is still humming like a dream but I am missing the portability of the broken one AND it would have most likely been able to machine quilt this last order. Oh well....what's done is done.
Speaking of Christmas tree above, the kitten only got sprayed once all day yesterday. She didn't actually jump into the tree this time, she was just swatting at an ornament. We made her a little box house for her to play in and she is loving it. Just don't walk by it too closely.....little white paws pop out and grab your ankles.
Ok, it's Friday, my vacation is over and back to work - but it's a 1/2 day so YAHOOOO! Have a wonderful day!
Wednesday, December 10, 2008
Quilt and Kitten Update
I took two vacation days to finalize a twin size quilt order for Christmas delivery. If all goes well and as planned, it should be in the mail by Monday. I'll be sure to post pics when it's done. You can see it a bit in the quilt frame post a week or so back.
The kitten vs. Christmas tree saga.....looks like mama won or maybe the water spray bottle. LOL She has not jumped into the tree since early this afternoon after a good spray or two. Of course, we did this 3 times before she got the hang of it. She was so upset, she went to the boys room and licked her "wounds" on the top bunk and went to sleep for awhile. Too funny.
Back to quilting so I can start my own Christmas gifts. Nothing like last minute to drive someone nuts! 'Tis the season....... :-D
The kitten vs. Christmas tree saga.....looks like mama won or maybe the water spray bottle. LOL She has not jumped into the tree since early this afternoon after a good spray or two. Of course, we did this 3 times before she got the hang of it. She was so upset, she went to the boys room and licked her "wounds" on the top bunk and went to sleep for awhile. Too funny.
Back to quilting so I can start my own Christmas gifts. Nothing like last minute to drive someone nuts! 'Tis the season....... :-D
Tuesday, December 9, 2008
Custom Gift Card Holder Order is Done - Yeah!!
Whew, busy evening. My order for 7 custom gift card holders are done and billed. YEAH! I am so excited. These are really fun to make and can be made in just about any size from gift card holders to make-up bags, wallets and more.
I'll be making more soon to list. Gift card holders are great any time of year for birthdays, baby showers, etc. I can even make themed holders given enough time to order the fabric.
Have a great day! Thanks for stopping by my blog!
Christmas tree/kitten update
Well, dh stopped by the store and picked up a new spray water bottle. I needed one for my ironing/quilting anyway.
Long story short.....the cat is getting sprayed every time she gets near the tree. She jumps but one small problem. SHE LIKES WATER. Who knew?!
Sure hope this works....wish us luck. Oh the fun of having a new baby in the house for the holidays.
We are NOT letting the pups near the tree!!!! Have you seen those girls? Search for Lily and Daisy in my blog posts for a picture. They are the size of baby elephants - no kidding!
Long story short.....the cat is getting sprayed every time she gets near the tree. She jumps but one small problem. SHE LIKES WATER. Who knew?!
Sure hope this works....wish us luck. Oh the fun of having a new baby in the house for the holidays.
We are NOT letting the pups near the tree!!!! Have you seen those girls? Search for Lily and Daisy in my blog posts for a picture. They are the size of baby elephants - no kidding!
Do you Twitter?
My friend, FabricsNQuilts, sent me an invite to Twitter. I've heard about it but finally signed up today.
Already picked up a new follower too! YEAH!!!
Not sure how it all works just yet but just another site for me to check in on often. LOL
Here is my Twitter account.
Already picked up a new follower too! YEAH!!!
Not sure how it all works just yet but just another site for me to check in on often. LOL
Here is my Twitter account.
Christmas Tree Dilemma
Well, if you've been keeping up with my blogging, you may know that we have a young deaf kitten. She is adorable but is a handful all at the same time.
We put up a Christmas tree on Sunday and let the boys decorate it. They did a great job. Well, the kitten has decided that this is her new jungle gym. It was cute the first, second and maybe even the third time.
This morning we woke up to the entire tree naked - all the ornaments including the angel were all over the floor - some broken. Needless to say, MOM (me) was NOT happy.
So, now we need to decide....do we take the tree down (until Christmas eve) or just spend all of our time spraying the cat with a water gun? I'm sure the boys will vote for the water gun just to chase the cat around but we're gone all day so I can just imagine the damage with her alone in the house. LOL Plus, I tend to like to keep my furniture dry - it's cold outside! :-)
Stay tuned for more updates to this Christmas tree dilemma.
We put up a Christmas tree on Sunday and let the boys decorate it. They did a great job. Well, the kitten has decided that this is her new jungle gym. It was cute the first, second and maybe even the third time.
This morning we woke up to the entire tree naked - all the ornaments including the angel were all over the floor - some broken. Needless to say, MOM (me) was NOT happy.
So, now we need to decide....do we take the tree down (until Christmas eve) or just spend all of our time spraying the cat with a water gun? I'm sure the boys will vote for the water gun just to chase the cat around but we're gone all day so I can just imagine the damage with her alone in the house. LOL Plus, I tend to like to keep my furniture dry - it's cold outside! :-)
Stay tuned for more updates to this Christmas tree dilemma.
Monday, December 8, 2008
Charleston Fingerless Slouch Gloves - Free Crochet Pattern
Charleston Fingerless Slouch Gloves designed by Kim Rutledge
Technique used: Crochet
YARN
Naturally Caron.com Country
75% Microdenier Acrylic/25% Merino Wool):
5 (5 1/2) oz (A), 1/2 (1/2) oz B.
Shown in: #0014 Deep Purple (A);
#0008 Silver Service (B).
One size US F-5 (3.75 mm) crochet hook, or size to obtain gauge
Yarn needle
SIZES
S/M (L/1X)
FINISHED MEASUREMENTS
Gloves measure approximately 16 1/2 (16 1/2)"/42 (42) cm long x 9 1/4 (11)"/23.5 (28) cm circumference (at palm)
GAUGE
In pattern stitch, 18 sts and 18 rows = 4"/10 cm.
STITCHES USED
Chain (ch), double crochet (dc), single crochet (sc), slip stitch (slip st)
SPECIAL TERMS
sCl: Slanting Cluster—[Yarn over, insert hook around post of last dc made from front to back then to front again, yarn over and and draw up a loop] 3 times, yarn over and draw through all loops on hook.
hdc3tog: [Yarn over, insert hook in indicated st and draw up a loop] 3 times, yarn over and draw through all loops on hook.
hdc4tog: [Yarn over, insert hook in indicated st and draw up a loop] 4 times, yarn over and draw through all loops on hook.
NOTES
1. Gloves are worked in rounds from elbow to wrist.
2. When joining rounds, always skip the beginning ch-1 and join with a slip st in the first sc of the round, unless otherwise instructed. Stitch counts do not include the beginning ch-1.
GLOVE (make 2)
With A, chain 50 (58); taking care not to twist ch, join with slip st in first ch to form a ring.
Round 1 (RS): Ch 1, sc in each ch around; join with slip st in first sc—50 (58) sc.
Round 2: Ch 1, sk first sc, sc in next sc, ch 1, *sk next sc, sc in next sc, ch 1; repeat from * around; join with slip st in first sc—25 (29) sc and 25 (29) ch-1 sps.
Rounds 3–8: Ch 1, *sc in next ch-1 sp, ch 1; repeat from * around; join with slip st in first sc.
Shape Glove
Decrease Round 1: Ch 1, sc in next 2 ch-1 sps, ch 1, *sc in next ch-1 sp, ch 1; repeat from * around; join with slip st in first sc—25 (29) sc and 24 (28) ch-1 sps.
Decrease Round 2: Ch 1, sk first 2 sc, *sc in next ch-1 sp, ch 1; repeat from * around; join with slip st in first sc—24 (28) sc and 24 (28) ch-1 sps.
Next 8 Rounds: Ch 1, *sc in next ch-1 sp, ch 1; repeat from * around; join with slip st in first sc.
Next 2 Rounds: Repeat Decrease Rounds 1 and 2—23 (27) sc and 23 (27) ch-1 sps.
Next 30 Rounds: Repeat last 10 Rounds 3 more times—20 (24) sc and 20 (24) ch-1 sps.
Next 4 Rounds: Ch 1, *sc in next ch-1 sp, ch 1; repeat from * around; join with slip st in first sc.
Next 2 Rounds: Repeat Decrease Rounds 1 and 2—19 (23) sc and 19 (23) ch-1 sps.
Shape for Thumb
Increase Round 1: Ch 1, [sc in next ch-1 sp, ch 1] 5 times, (sc, ch 1, sc) in next ch-1 sp, ch 1, *sc in next ch-1 sp, ch 1; repeat from * around; join with slip st in first sc—20 (24) sc and 20 (24) ch-1 sps.
Increase Round 2: Ch 1, [sc in next ch-1 sp, ch 1] 4 times, (sc, ch 1, sc) in next ch-1 sp, ch 1, sc in next ch-1 sp, ch 1, (sc, ch 1, sc) in next ch-1 sp, ch 1, *sc in next ch-1 sp, ch 1; repeat from * around; join with slip st in first sc—22 (26) sc and 22 (26) ch-1 sps.
Increase Round 3: Ch 1, [sc in next ch-1 sp, ch 1] 3 times, (sc, ch 1, sc) in next ch-1 sp, ch 1, [sc in next ch-1 sp, ch 1] 4 times, (sc, ch 1, sc) in next ch-1 sp, ch 1, *sc in next ch-1 sp, ch 1; repeat from * around; join with slip st in first sc—24 (28) sc and 24 (28) ch-1 sps.
Next 3 Rounds: Ch 1, *sc in next ch-1 sp, ch 1; repeat from * around; join with slip st in first sc.
Divide for Thumb
Round 1: Ch 1, [sc in next ch-1 sp, ch 1] 2 times, sc in next ch-1 sp, ch 3, sk next 4 ch-1 sps (for thumb opening), *sc in next ch-1 sp, ch 1; repeat from * around; join with slip st in first sc—20 (24) sc, 19 (23) ch-1 sps, and 1 ch-3 sp.
Round 2: Ch 1, [sc in next ch-1 sp, ch 1] twice, (sc, ch 1, sc) in next ch-3 sp, ch 1, *sc in next ch-1 sp, ch 1; repeat from * around; join with slip st in first sc—21 (25) sc and 21 (25) ch-1 sps.
Rounds 3–6: Ch 1, *sc in next ch-1 sp, ch 1; repeat from * around; join with slip st in first sc.
Rounds 7 and 8: Repeat Decrease Rounds 1 and 2—20 (24) sc and 20 (24) ch-1 sps. Fasten off.
Edging
Round 1: Join B with slip st in join of previous round, ch 3, sCl around beginning ch-3 just made, ch 1, *sk next (sc, ch 1, sc), dc in next ch-1 sp, sCl around dc just made, ch 1; repeat from * around; join with slip st in top of beginning ch. Fasten off.
Round 2: Join A with slip st in first ch-1 sp, ch 1, *work hdc3tog over the skipped (sc, ch 1, sc) between the next 2 sCl, ch 1; repeat from * around; join with slip st in first st. Fasten off.
Top Edging
With RS facing and working between sts along opposite side of foundation ch, join B with slip st between first 2 sts.
Round 1: Ch 3, sCl around beginning ch-3 just made, ch 1, *sk next 4 sc, dc in sp before next sc, sCl around dc just made, ch 1; repeat from * around; join with slip st in top of beginning ch. Fasten off.
Round 2: Join A with slip st in first ch-1 sp, ch 1, *work hdc4tog over the skipped 4 sc between the next 2 sCl, ch 1; repeat from * around; join with slip st in first st. Fasten off.
FINISHING
Using yarn needle, weave in all ends.
Friday, December 5, 2008
Tranquility Yoga Bag - Free Crochet Pattern
Tranquility Yoga Bag with Simply Soft Paints designed by Brenda Lewis
TECHNIQUE USED: Crochet - Beginner
FINISHED MEASUREMENTS
Bag measures approximately 6 1/2"/16.5 cm diameter x 27"/68.5 cm tall
MATERIALS
Caron International's Simply Soft® Paints (100% Acrylic): 11 oz.
Shown in: #0004 Spring Brook.
One size US H-8 (5 mm) crochet hook, or size to obtain gauge
ADDITIONAL MATERIALS
Stitch marker
Yarn needle
GAUGE
In single crochet, 16 sts and 18 rows = 4"/10 cm.
STITCHES USED
Chain (ch), half double crochet (hdc), single crochet (sc), slip stitch (slip st)
NOTE
Bag is worked in continuous rounds; do not join and do not turn at the end of rounds. Use a marker to indicate the beginning of round, and move marker up as work progresses.
BOTTOM
Chain 3; join with slip st in first ch to form a ring.
Round 1 (RS): Ch 1, work 9 sc in ring; place marker for beginning of round, move marker up as work progresses.
Round 2: 2 sc in each sc around—18 sc.
Round 3: [Sc in next sc, 2 sc in next sc] 9 times—27 sc.
Round 4: [Sc in next 2 sc, 2 sc in next sc] 9 times—36 sc.
Round 5: [Sc in next 3 sc, 2 sc in next sc] 9 times—45 sc.
Round 6: Sc in each sc around.
Round 7: [Sc in next 4 sc, 2 sc in next sc] 9 times—54 sc.
Round 8: Sc in each sc around.
Round 9: [Sc in next 5 sc, 2 sc in next sc] 9 times—63 sc.
Round 10: Sc in each sc around.
Round 11: [Sc in next 6 sc, 2 sc in next sc] 9 times—72 sc.
Round 12: Sc in each sc around. Do not fasten off.
Sides
Round 13: Working in front loops only, sc in each sc around.
Round 14: Sc in each sc around.
Repeat Round 14 until sides measure about 27"/68.5 cm.
Last Round (drawstring channel): Ch 2 (counts as hdc), hdc in next sc, ch 1, sk next sc, *hdc in next 2 sc, ch 1, sk next sc; repeat from * around; join with slip st in top of beginning ch. Fasten off.
DRAWSTRING
Chain 100.
Row 1: Slip st in second ch from hook and in each remaining ch across. Fasten off.
STRAP
Chain 9.
Row 1: Sc in second ch from hook and in each remaining ch across, turn—8 sc.
Row 2: Ch 1, sc in each sc across, turn.
Repeat Row 2 until strap measures about 27"/68.5 cm. Fasten off.
FINISHING
Weave drawstring through spaces in last round of bag. Tie ends together. Sew one end of strap to first row of side of bag. Sew other end of strap 5"/12.5 cm below top of bag.
Using yarn needle, weave in all ends.
Thursday, December 4, 2008
Difference between a friend and a best friend
Memphis Fingerless Gloves - Free Crochet Pattern
Memphis Fingerless Gloves designed by Kim Rutledge
Technique used: Crochet
YARN
Naturally Caron.com Country
75% Microdenier Acrylic/25% Merino Wool):
4 (4 1/2) oz (A), 1 (1) oz B.
Shown in: #0008 Silver Service (A); #0014 Deep Purple (B).
One size US F-5 (3.75 mm) crochet hook, or size to obtain gauge
Yarn needle
SIZES
S/M (L/1X)
FINISHED MEASUREMENTS
Gloves measure approximately 15 1/2 (15 1/2)"/39.5 (39.5) cm long x 7 1/2 (9 1/4)"/19 (23.5) cm circumference, with cuff not folded.
GAUGE
In pattern stitch, 18 sts and 18 rows = 4"/10 cm.
STITCHES USED
Chain (ch), double crochet (dc), single crochet (sc), slip stitch (slip st)
NOTES
1. Gloves are worked in rounds from elbow to wrist.
2. When joining rounds, always skip the beginning ch-1 and join with a slip st in the first sc of the round, unless otherwise instructed. Stitch counts do not include the beginning ch-1.
LEFT GLOVE
With A, chain 42 (50); taking care not to twist ch, join with slip st in first ch to form a ring.
Round 1 (RS): Ch 1, sc in each ch around; join with slip st in first sc—42 (50) sc.
Round 2: Ch 1, sk first sc, sc in next sc, ch 1, *sk next sc, sc in next sc, ch 1; repeat from * around; join with slip st in first sc—21 (25) sc and 21 (25) ch-1 sps.
Next 1 (2) Rounds: Ch 1, *sc in next ch-1 sp, ch 1; repeat from * around; join with slip st in first sc.
Shape Glove
Decrease Round 1: Ch 1, sc in next 2 ch-1 sps, ch 1, *sc in next ch-1 sp, ch 1; repeat from * around; join with slip st in first sc—21 (25) sc and 20 (24) ch-1 sps.
Decrease Round 2: Ch 1, sk first 2 sc, *sc in next ch-1 sp, ch 1; repeat from * around; join with slip st in first sc—20 (24) sc and 20 (24) ch-1 sps.
Next 4 (3) Rounds: Ch 1, *sc in next ch-1 sp, ch 1; repeat from * around; join with slip st in first sc.
Next 2 Rounds: Repeat Decrease Rounds 1 and 2—19 (23) sc and 19 (23) ch-1 sps.
Next 18 (20) Rounds: Repeat last 6 (5) Rounds 3 (4) more times—16 (19) sc and 16 (19) ch-1 sps.
Next 12 Rounds: Ch 1, *sc in next ch-1 sp, ch 1; repeat from * around; join with slip st in first sc.
Shape for Thumb
Increase Round 1: Ch 1, [sc in next ch-1 sp, ch 1] 5 times, (sc, ch 1, sc) in next ch-1 sp, ch 1, *sc in next ch-1 sp, ch 1; repeat from * around; join with slip st in first sc—17 (20) sc and 17 (20) ch-1 sps.
Increase Round 2: Ch 1, [sc in next ch-1 sp, ch 1] 4 times, (sc, ch 1, sc) in next ch-1 sp, ch 1, sc in next ch-1 sp, ch 1, (sc, ch 1, sc) in next ch-1 sp, ch 1, *sc in next ch-1 sp, ch 1; repeat from * around; join with slip st in first sc—19 (22) sc and 19 (22) ch-1 sps.
Increase Round 3: Ch 1, [sc in next ch-1 sp, ch 1] 3 times, (sc, ch 1, sc) in next ch-1 sp, ch 1, [sc in next ch-1 sp, ch 1] 4 times, (sc, ch 1, sc) in next ch-1 sp, ch 1, *sc in next ch-1 sp, ch 1; repeat from * around; join with slip st in first sc—21 (24) sc and 21 (24) ch-1 sps.
Next 3 Rounds: Ch 1, *sc in next ch-1 sp, ch 1; repeat from * around; join with slip st in first sc.
Divide for Thumb
Round 1: Ch 1, [sc in next ch-1 sp, ch 1] twice, sc in next ch-1 sp, ch 6, sk next 4 ch-1 sps (for thumb opening), *sc in next ch-1 sp, ch 1; repeat from * around; join with slip st in first sc—17 (20) sc, 16 (19) ch-1 sps, and 1 ch-6 sp.
Round 2: Ch 1, [sc in next ch-1 sp, ch 1] twice, sc in next ch-6 sp, ch 1, [sc in same ch-6 sp, ch 1] twice, *sc in next ch-1 sp, ch 1; repeat from * around; join with slip st in first sc—19 (22) sc and 19 (22) ch-1 sps.
Shape Palm
Round 1: Ch 1, [sc in next ch-1 sp, ch 1] 14 (16) times, [sc in next 2 ch-1 sps, ch 1] twice, [sc in next ch-1 sp, ch 1] 1 (2) times; join with slip st in first sc—19 (22) sc and 17 (20) ch-1 sps.
Rounds 3–6: Ch 1, *sc in next ch-1 sp, ch 1; repeat from * around; join with slip st in first sc—17 (20) sc and 17 (20) ch-1 sps. Fasten off.
Cuff
With WS facing, join B with slip st in last ch-1 sp of previous round.
Round 1: Ch 1, work 36 (42) sc evenly spaced around; join with slip st in first sc—36 (42) sc.
Round 2: Working in back loops only, ch 1, sc in same st as join, sk next 2 sc, 5 dc in next sc (shell made), sk next 2 sc, *sc in next sc, sk next 2 sc, 5 dc in next sc, sk next 2 sc; repeat from * around; join with slip st in first sc—6 (7) shells.
Round 3: Ch 3, 2 dc in same st as join, sk next 2 dc, sc in next dc, sk next 2 dc, *5 dc in next sc, sk next 2 dc, sc in next dc, sk next 2 dc; repeat from * around; 2 dc in same st as join; join with slip st in top of beginning ch.
Round 4: Ch 1, sc in same st as join, sk next 2 dc, 5 dc in next sc (shell made), sk next 2 dc, *sc in next dc, sk next 2 dc, 5 dc in next sc, sk next 2 dc; repeat from * around; join with slip st in first sc.
Rounds 5 and 6: Repeat Rounds 3 and 4. Fasten off.
Top Cuff
With RS facing and working along opposite side of foundation ch, join B with slip st in first ch.
Round 1: Ch 1, work 42 (50) sc evenly spaced around; join with slip st in first sc.
Round 2: Ch 1, sc in same st as join, sk next 2 (3) sc, 5 dc in next sc (shell made), *sk next 2 sc, sc in next sc, sk next 2 sc, 5 dc in next sc; repeat from * around to last 2 (3) sc, sk last 2 (3) sc; join with slip st in first sc—7 (8) shells. Fasten off.
RIGHT GLOVE
Work as for Left Glove to palm shaping.
Shape Palm
Round 1: Ch 1, [sc in next ch-1 sp, ch 1] 6 (8) times, [sc in next 2 ch-1 sps, ch 1] twice, *sc in next ch-1 sp, ch 1; rep from * around; join with slip st in first sc—19 (22) sc and 17 (20) ch-1 sps.
Rounds 3–6: Ch 1, *sc in next ch-1 sp, ch 1; repeat from * around; join with slip st in first sc—17 (20) sc and 17 (20) ch-1 sps. Fasten off.
Work cuffs as for Left Glove.
FINISHING
Using yarn needle, weave in all ends.
Technique used: Crochet
YARN
Naturally Caron.com Country
75% Microdenier Acrylic/25% Merino Wool):
4 (4 1/2) oz (A), 1 (1) oz B.
Shown in: #0008 Silver Service (A); #0014 Deep Purple (B).
One size US F-5 (3.75 mm) crochet hook, or size to obtain gauge
Yarn needle
SIZES
S/M (L/1X)
FINISHED MEASUREMENTS
Gloves measure approximately 15 1/2 (15 1/2)"/39.5 (39.5) cm long x 7 1/2 (9 1/4)"/19 (23.5) cm circumference, with cuff not folded.
GAUGE
In pattern stitch, 18 sts and 18 rows = 4"/10 cm.
STITCHES USED
Chain (ch), double crochet (dc), single crochet (sc), slip stitch (slip st)
NOTES
1. Gloves are worked in rounds from elbow to wrist.
2. When joining rounds, always skip the beginning ch-1 and join with a slip st in the first sc of the round, unless otherwise instructed. Stitch counts do not include the beginning ch-1.
LEFT GLOVE
With A, chain 42 (50); taking care not to twist ch, join with slip st in first ch to form a ring.
Round 1 (RS): Ch 1, sc in each ch around; join with slip st in first sc—42 (50) sc.
Round 2: Ch 1, sk first sc, sc in next sc, ch 1, *sk next sc, sc in next sc, ch 1; repeat from * around; join with slip st in first sc—21 (25) sc and 21 (25) ch-1 sps.
Next 1 (2) Rounds: Ch 1, *sc in next ch-1 sp, ch 1; repeat from * around; join with slip st in first sc.
Shape Glove
Decrease Round 1: Ch 1, sc in next 2 ch-1 sps, ch 1, *sc in next ch-1 sp, ch 1; repeat from * around; join with slip st in first sc—21 (25) sc and 20 (24) ch-1 sps.
Decrease Round 2: Ch 1, sk first 2 sc, *sc in next ch-1 sp, ch 1; repeat from * around; join with slip st in first sc—20 (24) sc and 20 (24) ch-1 sps.
Next 4 (3) Rounds: Ch 1, *sc in next ch-1 sp, ch 1; repeat from * around; join with slip st in first sc.
Next 2 Rounds: Repeat Decrease Rounds 1 and 2—19 (23) sc and 19 (23) ch-1 sps.
Next 18 (20) Rounds: Repeat last 6 (5) Rounds 3 (4) more times—16 (19) sc and 16 (19) ch-1 sps.
Next 12 Rounds: Ch 1, *sc in next ch-1 sp, ch 1; repeat from * around; join with slip st in first sc.
Shape for Thumb
Increase Round 1: Ch 1, [sc in next ch-1 sp, ch 1] 5 times, (sc, ch 1, sc) in next ch-1 sp, ch 1, *sc in next ch-1 sp, ch 1; repeat from * around; join with slip st in first sc—17 (20) sc and 17 (20) ch-1 sps.
Increase Round 2: Ch 1, [sc in next ch-1 sp, ch 1] 4 times, (sc, ch 1, sc) in next ch-1 sp, ch 1, sc in next ch-1 sp, ch 1, (sc, ch 1, sc) in next ch-1 sp, ch 1, *sc in next ch-1 sp, ch 1; repeat from * around; join with slip st in first sc—19 (22) sc and 19 (22) ch-1 sps.
Increase Round 3: Ch 1, [sc in next ch-1 sp, ch 1] 3 times, (sc, ch 1, sc) in next ch-1 sp, ch 1, [sc in next ch-1 sp, ch 1] 4 times, (sc, ch 1, sc) in next ch-1 sp, ch 1, *sc in next ch-1 sp, ch 1; repeat from * around; join with slip st in first sc—21 (24) sc and 21 (24) ch-1 sps.
Next 3 Rounds: Ch 1, *sc in next ch-1 sp, ch 1; repeat from * around; join with slip st in first sc.
Divide for Thumb
Round 1: Ch 1, [sc in next ch-1 sp, ch 1] twice, sc in next ch-1 sp, ch 6, sk next 4 ch-1 sps (for thumb opening), *sc in next ch-1 sp, ch 1; repeat from * around; join with slip st in first sc—17 (20) sc, 16 (19) ch-1 sps, and 1 ch-6 sp.
Round 2: Ch 1, [sc in next ch-1 sp, ch 1] twice, sc in next ch-6 sp, ch 1, [sc in same ch-6 sp, ch 1] twice, *sc in next ch-1 sp, ch 1; repeat from * around; join with slip st in first sc—19 (22) sc and 19 (22) ch-1 sps.
Shape Palm
Round 1: Ch 1, [sc in next ch-1 sp, ch 1] 14 (16) times, [sc in next 2 ch-1 sps, ch 1] twice, [sc in next ch-1 sp, ch 1] 1 (2) times; join with slip st in first sc—19 (22) sc and 17 (20) ch-1 sps.
Rounds 3–6: Ch 1, *sc in next ch-1 sp, ch 1; repeat from * around; join with slip st in first sc—17 (20) sc and 17 (20) ch-1 sps. Fasten off.
Cuff
With WS facing, join B with slip st in last ch-1 sp of previous round.
Round 1: Ch 1, work 36 (42) sc evenly spaced around; join with slip st in first sc—36 (42) sc.
Round 2: Working in back loops only, ch 1, sc in same st as join, sk next 2 sc, 5 dc in next sc (shell made), sk next 2 sc, *sc in next sc, sk next 2 sc, 5 dc in next sc, sk next 2 sc; repeat from * around; join with slip st in first sc—6 (7) shells.
Round 3: Ch 3, 2 dc in same st as join, sk next 2 dc, sc in next dc, sk next 2 dc, *5 dc in next sc, sk next 2 dc, sc in next dc, sk next 2 dc; repeat from * around; 2 dc in same st as join; join with slip st in top of beginning ch.
Round 4: Ch 1, sc in same st as join, sk next 2 dc, 5 dc in next sc (shell made), sk next 2 dc, *sc in next dc, sk next 2 dc, 5 dc in next sc, sk next 2 dc; repeat from * around; join with slip st in first sc.
Rounds 5 and 6: Repeat Rounds 3 and 4. Fasten off.
Top Cuff
With RS facing and working along opposite side of foundation ch, join B with slip st in first ch.
Round 1: Ch 1, work 42 (50) sc evenly spaced around; join with slip st in first sc.
Round 2: Ch 1, sc in same st as join, sk next 2 (3) sc, 5 dc in next sc (shell made), *sk next 2 sc, sc in next sc, sk next 2 sc, 5 dc in next sc; repeat from * around to last 2 (3) sc, sk last 2 (3) sc; join with slip st in first sc—7 (8) shells. Fasten off.
RIGHT GLOVE
Work as for Left Glove to palm shaping.
Shape Palm
Round 1: Ch 1, [sc in next ch-1 sp, ch 1] 6 (8) times, [sc in next 2 ch-1 sps, ch 1] twice, *sc in next ch-1 sp, ch 1; rep from * around; join with slip st in first sc—19 (22) sc and 17 (20) ch-1 sps.
Rounds 3–6: Ch 1, *sc in next ch-1 sp, ch 1; repeat from * around; join with slip st in first sc—17 (20) sc and 17 (20) ch-1 sps. Fasten off.
Work cuffs as for Left Glove.
FINISHING
Using yarn needle, weave in all ends.
Jackson Socks - Free Knit Pattern
Jackson Socks - Free Knit Pattern designed by Ann Aschenbrenner
Technique used: Knit
YARN
Naturally Caron.com Country
(75% Microdenier acrylic/25% merino wool) from Caron International:
X-Small and Small: #0004 Green Sheen (MC) and #0007 Naturally (CC), 3 oz/85 gr each
Medium: #0017 Claret MC) and #0012 Foliage (CC), 3 oz/85 gr each
Large: #0021 Peacock (MC) and #0022 Plum Pudding (CC), 3 oz/85 g each
Five double-pointed needles (dpns) size US 7 (4.5mm) or size to obtain gauge
Stitch marker
Yarn needle
SIZES
X-Small (Small, Medium, Large)
To fit 6 months (18 months, 6 year old, shoe size 8)
FINISHED MEASUREMENTS
Length of Sock 5 (6 1/2, 8, 10)”
Foot Circumference 5 (5 3/4, 6 1/2, 8)”
GAUGE
In Stockinette Stitch: 22 sts and 22 rows = 4”/10 cm
SOCKS
Using MC, cast on 32 (32, 36, 44) sts evenly divided onto 4 dpns. Join being careful not to twist. Pm to mark beginning of rnd.
Work around in k2, p2 rib following this stripe pattern:
Work 3 (3, 7, 9) rnds MC alternating with 3, (3, 7, 9) rnds CC (CO counts as one rnd) until there are 5 (5, 3, 3) stripes of MC and 4 (4, 2, 2) stripes of CC..
Divide for heel flap:
Color pattern
Sizes XS and S only: The remainder of the sock is worked with MC.
Sizes M and L only: Attach CC and work 2 rows of heel flap, then with MC work for 2 rows. Alternate 2 rows of each color for remainder of heel flap.
All Sizes:
Row 1: (Sl 1, k1) across 16 (16, 18, 22) sts, turn.
Row 2: Sl 1, p to end, turn
Repeat Rows 1 and 2 until 10 (10, 14, 18) rows have been completed, ending after last p row.
Turn heel:
All Sizes: Use MC and work as follows:
Row 1: K10 (10, 12, 14), k2tog TBL, turn
Row 2: S1, p4 (4, 6, 6), p2tog, turn.
Row 3: Sl1, k4 (4, 6, 6), k2tog TBL, turn.
Repeat Rows 2 and 3 until all sts are worked, ending with a p row -- 6 (6, 8, 8) sts remain.
Gusset:
Begin working in-the-rnd again continuing in MC and using different color markers as follows:
K3 (3, 4, 6) -- half the heel sts, pm #1; k remaining 3 (3, 4, 6) heel sts; then pick up and k7 (7, 9, 10) sts along side of heel flap, pm #2; k16 (16, 18, 20) instep sts, pm #3, also marks original beginning of rnd; pick up and k7 (7, 9, 10) sts along other side of heel; k to marker #1 (middle of heel) -- 36 (36, 44, 52) sts.
Note: Pick up gusset sts in slipped sts on edge of gusset and pick up a gusset st in each corner of heel flap to prevent holes from forming in heel.
Begin dec rows:
Note: For dec rows only, use marker #1 to mark the beginning of the rnd so that decs are the same on both sides of the sock.
Color pattern
Sizes XS and S only: Work in MC.
Sizes M and L only: Work until a total of 7 (9) rows have been worked in MC (includes pick-up row). Change to CC at marker #3 and work 21 (27) rnds following instructions for decs; then work in MC for remainder of piece.
All sizes:
Rnd 1: K.
Rnd 2: K to 3 sts before marker 2, k2tog, k1; k around to marker #3, sm, k1, SSK, k to end.
Repeat Rnds 1 and 2 until 32 (32, 36, 44) sts remain.
Size XS only:
Work one more dec rnd as follows:
K to 3 sts before marker #2, k2tog, k1; sm, k1, SSK; k around to 3 sts before marker #3, k2tog, k1, sm, k1, SSK, k to end -- 28 sts remain.
All Sizes:
Work until foot measures 4 1/2 (6, 7 1/2, 9 1/2)” or desired length.
Note: Toe will add approximately 5”.
Toe decs:
Start at marker #3 (side of foot), k1, SSK, k to 3 sts before marker #2, k1, k2tog, sm, k1, SSK, k to 3 sts before marker #3, k2tog, k1.
Repeat this rnd 3 (3, 4, 4) times -- 16 (20, 20, 28) sts remain.
Close edge with Kitchener stitch.
FINISHING
Using yarn needle, weave in ends.
Technique used: Knit
YARN
Naturally Caron.com Country
(75% Microdenier acrylic/25% merino wool) from Caron International:
X-Small and Small: #0004 Green Sheen (MC) and #0007 Naturally (CC), 3 oz/85 gr each
Medium: #0017 Claret MC) and #0012 Foliage (CC), 3 oz/85 gr each
Large: #0021 Peacock (MC) and #0022 Plum Pudding (CC), 3 oz/85 g each
Five double-pointed needles (dpns) size US 7 (4.5mm) or size to obtain gauge
Stitch marker
Yarn needle
SIZES
X-Small (Small, Medium, Large)
To fit 6 months (18 months, 6 year old, shoe size 8)
FINISHED MEASUREMENTS
Length of Sock 5 (6 1/2, 8, 10)”
Foot Circumference 5 (5 3/4, 6 1/2, 8)”
GAUGE
In Stockinette Stitch: 22 sts and 22 rows = 4”/10 cm
SOCKS
Using MC, cast on 32 (32, 36, 44) sts evenly divided onto 4 dpns. Join being careful not to twist. Pm to mark beginning of rnd.
Work around in k2, p2 rib following this stripe pattern:
Work 3 (3, 7, 9) rnds MC alternating with 3, (3, 7, 9) rnds CC (CO counts as one rnd) until there are 5 (5, 3, 3) stripes of MC and 4 (4, 2, 2) stripes of CC..
Divide for heel flap:
Color pattern
Sizes XS and S only: The remainder of the sock is worked with MC.
Sizes M and L only: Attach CC and work 2 rows of heel flap, then with MC work for 2 rows. Alternate 2 rows of each color for remainder of heel flap.
All Sizes:
Row 1: (Sl 1, k1) across 16 (16, 18, 22) sts, turn.
Row 2: Sl 1, p to end, turn
Repeat Rows 1 and 2 until 10 (10, 14, 18) rows have been completed, ending after last p row.
Turn heel:
All Sizes: Use MC and work as follows:
Row 1: K10 (10, 12, 14), k2tog TBL, turn
Row 2: S1, p4 (4, 6, 6), p2tog, turn.
Row 3: Sl1, k4 (4, 6, 6), k2tog TBL, turn.
Repeat Rows 2 and 3 until all sts are worked, ending with a p row -- 6 (6, 8, 8) sts remain.
Gusset:
Begin working in-the-rnd again continuing in MC and using different color markers as follows:
K3 (3, 4, 6) -- half the heel sts, pm #1; k remaining 3 (3, 4, 6) heel sts; then pick up and k7 (7, 9, 10) sts along side of heel flap, pm #2; k16 (16, 18, 20) instep sts, pm #3, also marks original beginning of rnd; pick up and k7 (7, 9, 10) sts along other side of heel; k to marker #1 (middle of heel) -- 36 (36, 44, 52) sts.
Note: Pick up gusset sts in slipped sts on edge of gusset and pick up a gusset st in each corner of heel flap to prevent holes from forming in heel.
Begin dec rows:
Note: For dec rows only, use marker #1 to mark the beginning of the rnd so that decs are the same on both sides of the sock.
Color pattern
Sizes XS and S only: Work in MC.
Sizes M and L only: Work until a total of 7 (9) rows have been worked in MC (includes pick-up row). Change to CC at marker #3 and work 21 (27) rnds following instructions for decs; then work in MC for remainder of piece.
All sizes:
Rnd 1: K.
Rnd 2: K to 3 sts before marker 2, k2tog, k1; k around to marker #3, sm, k1, SSK, k to end.
Repeat Rnds 1 and 2 until 32 (32, 36, 44) sts remain.
Size XS only:
Work one more dec rnd as follows:
K to 3 sts before marker #2, k2tog, k1; sm, k1, SSK; k around to 3 sts before marker #3, k2tog, k1, sm, k1, SSK, k to end -- 28 sts remain.
All Sizes:
Work until foot measures 4 1/2 (6, 7 1/2, 9 1/2)” or desired length.
Note: Toe will add approximately 5”.
Toe decs:
Start at marker #3 (side of foot), k1, SSK, k to 3 sts before marker #2, k1, k2tog, sm, k1, SSK, k to 3 sts before marker #3, k2tog, k1.
Repeat this rnd 3 (3, 4, 4) times -- 16 (20, 20, 28) sts remain.
Close edge with Kitchener stitch.
FINISHING
Using yarn needle, weave in ends.
Toddler Country Jacket - Free Knit Pattern
Toddler Country Jacket - Free Knit Pattern from Caron.com designed by Kathy Perry
TECHNIQUE USED: Knit
SIZES: Infant (6 months 12 months)
FINISHED MEASUREMENTS
Chest: 19 (20, 21)”/48.5 (51, 53.5) cm
Length: 8 (9, 10 1/2)"/20.5 (23, 26.5) cm
MATERIALS
Caron International’s Simply Soft® Paints (100% acrylic, 4oz/133g, 200yds/182m): #0006 Oceana (MC), 4oz
Caron International’s Simply Soft® Brites (100% acrylic, 6oz/170g, 315yds/288m): #9609 Berry Blue (A) and #9610 Grape (B), 6oz
One pair US size 8 (5 mm) or size to obtain gauge
Tapestry needle (tn)
Crochet hook H-8 (5 mm)
GAUGE
In Stockinette stitch, using MC, 16 sts and 24 rows = 4”/10 cm
In Stripe Pattern stitch, 10 sts and 16 rows =2 1/4"/5.5 cm
STITCHES USED
Stockinette stitch (St st)
Garter stitch
Stripe Pattern (for Sleeves)
Rows 1-4: Garter st with MC.
Rows 5-8: St st with A.
Rows 9-12: Garter st with MC.
Rows 13-16: St st with B.
Rep Rows 1-16
BACK (knit sideways)
Using A, CO 32 (36, 42) sts. Work in St st:
10 rows A.
10 rows B.
18 (22, 24) rows MC.
10 rows B.
10 rows A.
BO.
RIGHT FRONT (knit sideways)
Using A, CO 32 (35, 42) sts.
Work Rows 1-20 as for Back.
Change to MC.
BO 8 sts at beg of next row.
Work 5 (7, 9) additional rows MC in St st.
Change to Garter st and work 4 rows.
BO.
LEFT FRONT (knit sideways)
Work Left Front with rev shaping.
SLEEVES (knit vertically)
Note: Sleeves are worked in Stripe Pattern.
Using MC, CO 22 (26, 28) sts.
Work in Garter st for 4 rows.
Work in Stripe Pattern starting with Row 5. AT SAME TIME shape sleeve as follows:
Inc 1 st each side every 4 (6, 6) rows 5 (1, 1) time(s), then every 6 (8, 8) rows 1 (4, 4) times -- 34 (36, 38) sts. Work even until Sleeve measures 6 (6 1/2, 7)" from beg.
BO loosely.
FINISHING
Block pieces to measurements.
Sew shoulder seams. Place markers 4 (4 1/4, 4 1/2)" down from shoulder seam on Back and Front for Sleeve placement. Sew Sleeves in place. Sew side and Sleeve seams.
Using MC and crochet hook, work 1 row sc around bottom and neckline.
Make approx 25-30" of twisted cord. Tack twisted cord in place along neckline with extra used as front ties. Unravel ties to desired length. Knot and trim ends to form 1" fringe.
Weave in ends.
Twisted cord
Cut 2 lengths of yarn 4-5 times desired finished cord length. Fold strands in half and anchor strands at fold. Twist tightly clockwise until yarn kinks. Release folded end and allow yarn to twist around itself. Secure end with a knot.
Wednesday, December 3, 2008
My First Etsy Treasury!!!!
I have been selling on Etsy for almost a year and have tried over and over to catch a Treasury. Well, today I finally caught one.
Got the blues?
Just click on "the blues" and see these lovely quilted treasures from very talented Etsians.
Got the blues?
Just click on "the blues" and see these lovely quilted treasures from very talented Etsians.
Saturday, November 29, 2008
My new quilt rack....
Looky what my wonderful hubby made for me today. Ok, you can't see it in full detail since I already have a quilt loaded on it but I ran into a dilema today. I have a custom quilt that was ready for machine quilting when my machine decided it would not cooperate with this particular quilt. So, hand quilting it is but I didn't have a quilt rack anymore.
Once I calmed down about the entire issue, he asked me what I needed to get this custom order done and I showed him a fairly inexpensive model and he said no problem. But it gets even better. Since the quilt store is 75 miles away, he went to Lowe's and made me a handcrafted custom order quilt rack!!!!
"Sew" now I'm back in business and better get back to it instead of sitting here at the computer! LOL
Once I calmed down about the entire issue, he asked me what I needed to get this custom order done and I showed him a fairly inexpensive model and he said no problem. But it gets even better. Since the quilt store is 75 miles away, he went to Lowe's and made me a handcrafted custom order quilt rack!!!!
"Sew" now I'm back in business and better get back to it instead of sitting here at the computer! LOL
Thursday, November 27, 2008
Happy Thanksgiving!
Wishing you and your families a very Happy Thanksgiving.
glitter-graphics.com
Today I am thankful for my husband, healthy kids, and very good friends. I love all of you! (You know who you are.....)
glitter-graphics.com
Today I am thankful for my husband, healthy kids, and very good friends. I love all of you! (You know who you are.....)
Wednesday, November 26, 2008
Etsy Shop Local - Upstate South Carolina
Here are some great local sellers for the Upstate SC region. Just click the links to view by location.
Easley
Greenville
Taylors
Greer
Piedmont
Anderson
Simpsonville
This is just a list of a few local areas - go to Etsy and Shop Local for YOUR area.
Easley
Greenville
Taylors
Greer
Piedmont
Anderson
Simpsonville
This is just a list of a few local areas - go to Etsy and Shop Local for YOUR area.
Poinsettia Quilt Block - 12" Block - Free Pattern
12" Poinsettia Quilt Block courtesy of Quilt.com
Fabric
The Poinsettia Block uses 4 different fabrics.
Fabric A
Fabric B
Fabric C
One background fabric
Cutting the fabric
This Block requires:
Four 3-1/2" x 6-1/2" rectangles of Fabric A
Four 3-1/2" x 6-1/2" rectangles of Fabric B
Four 3-1/2" squares of Fabric C
Twelve 3-1/2" squqares of background fabric
Piecing the Block
1) Lightly mark a line on the diagonal of the wrong side of the four 3-1/2" squares of Fabric C and the twelve 3-1/2" squares of the background fabric.
2) Place one of the 3-1/2" Fabric C squares on top of one of the 3-1/2" X 6-1/2" Fabric A rectangles, right sides together, with the marked diagonal line as shown. Sew on the diagonal line. Repeat with the three remaining Fabric A rectangles.
3) Trim the fabric 1/4" away from the sewn line as shown. Press the seam toward Fabric C.
4) Taking the units created in Step 3, place one of the 3-1/2" background fabric squares, right sides together, and marked diagonal line positioned as shown on top of the unit. Sew on the marked line. Repeat with the three remaining units from Step 3.
5) Trim the fabric 1/4" away from the sewn line as shown. Press seam toward the background fabric. The completed rectangle should measure 3-1/2" X 6-1/2".
6) Place one of the 3-1/2" background fabric squares on top of one of the 3-1/2" X 6-1/2" Fabric B rectangles, right sides together, with the marked diagonal line as shown. Sew on the diagonal line. Repeat with the three remaining Fabric B rectangles.
7) Trim the fabric 1/4" away from the sewn line as shown. Press the seam toward the background fabric.
8) Taking the units created in Step 7, place one of the remaining 3-1/2" background fabric squares, right sides together, and marked diagonal line positioned as shown on top of the unit. Sew on the marked line. Repeat with the three remaining units from Step 7.
9) Trim the fabric 1/4" away from the sewn line as shown. Press seam toward the background fabric. The completed rectangle should measure 3-1/2" X 6-1/2".
10) Take one of the units completed in Step 6 and one of the units completed in Step 9 and piece together as shown. Press the seam allowance toward the rectangle which contains Fabric A. Repeat with the remaining units. The four completed squares should measure 6 1/2".
11) Piece two of the squares completed in Step 10 together as shown. Repeat with the remaining two squares. Press the seam allowance to either side, just remaining consistant. The completed units should measure 6 1/2" x 12 1/2" inches.
12) Piece together the two units completed in Step 11 as shown to completed the Poinsettia Block. Press seam allowance to either side. The completed Block should measure 12 1/2" which includes a 1/4" seam allowance on all sides.
Fabric
The Poinsettia Block uses 4 different fabrics.
Fabric A
Fabric B
Fabric C
One background fabric
Cutting the fabric
This Block requires:
Four 3-1/2" x 6-1/2" rectangles of Fabric A
Four 3-1/2" x 6-1/2" rectangles of Fabric B
Four 3-1/2" squares of Fabric C
Twelve 3-1/2" squqares of background fabric
Piecing the Block
1) Lightly mark a line on the diagonal of the wrong side of the four 3-1/2" squares of Fabric C and the twelve 3-1/2" squares of the background fabric.
2) Place one of the 3-1/2" Fabric C squares on top of one of the 3-1/2" X 6-1/2" Fabric A rectangles, right sides together, with the marked diagonal line as shown. Sew on the diagonal line. Repeat with the three remaining Fabric A rectangles.
3) Trim the fabric 1/4" away from the sewn line as shown. Press the seam toward Fabric C.
4) Taking the units created in Step 3, place one of the 3-1/2" background fabric squares, right sides together, and marked diagonal line positioned as shown on top of the unit. Sew on the marked line. Repeat with the three remaining units from Step 3.
5) Trim the fabric 1/4" away from the sewn line as shown. Press seam toward the background fabric. The completed rectangle should measure 3-1/2" X 6-1/2".
6) Place one of the 3-1/2" background fabric squares on top of one of the 3-1/2" X 6-1/2" Fabric B rectangles, right sides together, with the marked diagonal line as shown. Sew on the diagonal line. Repeat with the three remaining Fabric B rectangles.
7) Trim the fabric 1/4" away from the sewn line as shown. Press the seam toward the background fabric.
8) Taking the units created in Step 7, place one of the remaining 3-1/2" background fabric squares, right sides together, and marked diagonal line positioned as shown on top of the unit. Sew on the marked line. Repeat with the three remaining units from Step 7.
9) Trim the fabric 1/4" away from the sewn line as shown. Press seam toward the background fabric. The completed rectangle should measure 3-1/2" X 6-1/2".
10) Take one of the units completed in Step 6 and one of the units completed in Step 9 and piece together as shown. Press the seam allowance toward the rectangle which contains Fabric A. Repeat with the remaining units. The four completed squares should measure 6 1/2".
11) Piece two of the squares completed in Step 10 together as shown. Repeat with the remaining two squares. Press the seam allowance to either side, just remaining consistant. The completed units should measure 6 1/2" x 12 1/2" inches.
12) Piece together the two units completed in Step 11 as shown to completed the Poinsettia Block. Press seam allowance to either side. The completed Block should measure 12 1/2" which includes a 1/4" seam allowance on all sides.
Mirror Lake Scarf - Free Crochet Pattern
Mirror Lake Scarf designed by Lisa Gentry
Technique used: Crochet
YARN
Naturally Caron.com Spa
(75% Microdenier acrylic, 25% Bamboo; 3 oz/85g, 251 yds/230m ball):
9 oz.
Shown in: #0004 Green Sheen.
One size US I-9 (5.5 mm) crochet hook or size to obtain gauge
Yarn needle
FINISHED MEASUREMENTS
Scarf measures approximately 60"/147.5 cm long x 7 1/2"/19 cm wide, without fringes.
Note: Scarf stretches lengthwise when worn.
GAUGE
1 square = 7 x 7"/18 x 18 cm, without edging.
STITCHES USED
Chain (ch), double crochet (dc), half double crochet (hdc), single crochet (sc), slip stitch (slip st)
SPECIAL TERMS
picot: (sc, ch 3, slip st in first ch of ch-3, sc) in indicated stitch or space.
Cl: cluster—Yarn over, insert hook in indicated stitch or space and draw up a loop, yarn over and draw through 2 loops on hook, [yarn over, insert hook in same stitch or space and draw up a loop, yarn over and draw through 2 loops on hook] 3 times, yarn over and draw through all 5 loops on hook.
MOTIF (make 8)
Chain 6; join with slip st in first ch to form a ring.
Round 1 (RS): Ch 3 (counts as first dc here and throughout), 4 dc in ring, ch 2, [5 dc in ring, ch 2] 3 times; join with slip st in top of beginning ch—Four 5-dc groups and 4 ch-2 sps.
Round 2: Ch 3, dc in same st as join, 2 dc in next dc, ch 2, sk next dc, 2 dc in next 2 dc, ch 3, [2 dc in next 2 dc, ch 2, sk next dc, 2 dc in next 2 dc, ch 3] 3 times; join with slip st in top of beginning ch.
Round 3: Ch 3, dc in next 3 dc, ch 3, dc in next 4 dc, ch 4, [dc in next 4 dc, ch 3, dc in next 4 dc, ch 4] 3 times; join with slip st in top of beginning ch.
Round 4: Ch 3, dc in next 3 dc, ch 4, dc in next 4 dc, ch 5, [dc in next 4 dc, ch 4, dc in next 4 dc, ch 5] 3 times; join with slip st in top of beginning ch.
Round 5: Ch 3, dc in next 3 dc, ch 5, dc in next 4 dc, ch 3, Cl in next ch-5 sp, ch 3, [dc in next 4 dc, ch 5, dc in next 4 dc, ch 3, Cl in next ch-5 sp, ch 3] 3 times; join with slip st in top of beginning ch.
Round 6: Ch 3, dc in next 3 dc, ch 4; sc around ch-5 sp 1 round below and ch-5 sp 2 rounds below; ch 4, dc in next 4 dc, ch 4, Cl in next ch-3 sp, ch 5, sk next Cl, Cl in next ch-3 sp, ch 4, [dc in next 4 dc, ch 4; sc around ch-5 sp 1 round below and ch-5 sp 2 rounds below; ch 4, dc in next 4 dc, ch 4, Cl in next ch-3 sp, ch 5, sk next Cl, Cl in next ch-3 sp, ch 4] 3 times; join with slip st in top of beginning ch.
Round 7: Ch 3, dc in next 3 dc, ch 2, 3 sc in next sc, ch 2, dc in next 4 dc, ch 8, sk next ch-4 sp, sk next Cl, (sc, ch 10, sc) in next ch-5 sp, ch 8, sk next Cl, sk next ch-4 sp, [dc in next 4 dc, ch 2, 3 sc in next sc, ch 2, dc in next 4 dc, ch 8, sk next ch-4 sp, sk next Cl, (sc, ch 10, sc) in next ch-5 sp, ch 8, sk next Cl, sk next ch-4 sp] 3 times; join with slip st in top of beginning ch.
Round 8: Ch 3, dc in next 3 dc, sk next ch-2 sp, sk next sc, Cl in next sc (center sc of 3-sc group), sk next sc, sk next ch-2 sp, dc in next 4 dc, ch 3, 4 dc in next ch-8 sp, ch 3, (4 dc, ch 3, 4 dc) in next ch-10 sp, ch 3, 4 dc in next ch-8 sp, ch 3, [dc in next 4 dc, sk next ch-2 sp, sk next sc, Cl in next sc, sk next sc, sk next ch-2 sp, dc in next 4 dc, ch 3, 4 dc in next ch-8 sp, ch 3, (4 dc, ch 3, 4 dc) in next ch-10 sp, ch 3, 4 dc in next ch-8 sp, ch 3] 3 times; join with slip st in top of beginning ch. Fasten off.
FINISHING
Arrange squares into a long strip and whip stitch edges together.
Edging
With RS facing, join yarn with slip st in corner ch-3 sp to work along short edge.
Round 1: [Work picot in corner ch-3 sp, [14 dc in next ch-3 sp, picot in next ch-3 sp, 14 dc in next Cl, picot in next ch-3 sp, 14 dc in next ch-3 sp, picot in corner ch-3 sp, *14 dc in next ch-3 sp, picot in next ch-3 sp, 14 dc in next Cl, picot in next ch-3 sp, 14 dc in next ch-3 sp**, picot in seam between squares; rep from * along long edge, ending at **] twice; join with slip st in first sc. Fasten off.
Using yarn needle, weave in all ends.
Fringes
Cut 100 strands of yarn about 16"/40.5 cm long. Hold 10 strands together and fold in half. Using crochet hook, *insert hook from WS to RS into end of scarf pull through fold of strands (loop), insert ends into loop and pull tight against edge; repeat from * attaching 5 fringes evenly spaced along end of scarf. Repeat on other end of scarf. Trim fringes to approx. 7"/18 cm long.
Technique used: Crochet
YARN
Naturally Caron.com Spa
(75% Microdenier acrylic, 25% Bamboo; 3 oz/85g, 251 yds/230m ball):
9 oz.
Shown in: #0004 Green Sheen.
One size US I-9 (5.5 mm) crochet hook or size to obtain gauge
Yarn needle
FINISHED MEASUREMENTS
Scarf measures approximately 60"/147.5 cm long x 7 1/2"/19 cm wide, without fringes.
Note: Scarf stretches lengthwise when worn.
GAUGE
1 square = 7 x 7"/18 x 18 cm, without edging.
STITCHES USED
Chain (ch), double crochet (dc), half double crochet (hdc), single crochet (sc), slip stitch (slip st)
SPECIAL TERMS
picot: (sc, ch 3, slip st in first ch of ch-3, sc) in indicated stitch or space.
Cl: cluster—Yarn over, insert hook in indicated stitch or space and draw up a loop, yarn over and draw through 2 loops on hook, [yarn over, insert hook in same stitch or space and draw up a loop, yarn over and draw through 2 loops on hook] 3 times, yarn over and draw through all 5 loops on hook.
MOTIF (make 8)
Chain 6; join with slip st in first ch to form a ring.
Round 1 (RS): Ch 3 (counts as first dc here and throughout), 4 dc in ring, ch 2, [5 dc in ring, ch 2] 3 times; join with slip st in top of beginning ch—Four 5-dc groups and 4 ch-2 sps.
Round 2: Ch 3, dc in same st as join, 2 dc in next dc, ch 2, sk next dc, 2 dc in next 2 dc, ch 3, [2 dc in next 2 dc, ch 2, sk next dc, 2 dc in next 2 dc, ch 3] 3 times; join with slip st in top of beginning ch.
Round 3: Ch 3, dc in next 3 dc, ch 3, dc in next 4 dc, ch 4, [dc in next 4 dc, ch 3, dc in next 4 dc, ch 4] 3 times; join with slip st in top of beginning ch.
Round 4: Ch 3, dc in next 3 dc, ch 4, dc in next 4 dc, ch 5, [dc in next 4 dc, ch 4, dc in next 4 dc, ch 5] 3 times; join with slip st in top of beginning ch.
Round 5: Ch 3, dc in next 3 dc, ch 5, dc in next 4 dc, ch 3, Cl in next ch-5 sp, ch 3, [dc in next 4 dc, ch 5, dc in next 4 dc, ch 3, Cl in next ch-5 sp, ch 3] 3 times; join with slip st in top of beginning ch.
Round 6: Ch 3, dc in next 3 dc, ch 4; sc around ch-5 sp 1 round below and ch-5 sp 2 rounds below; ch 4, dc in next 4 dc, ch 4, Cl in next ch-3 sp, ch 5, sk next Cl, Cl in next ch-3 sp, ch 4, [dc in next 4 dc, ch 4; sc around ch-5 sp 1 round below and ch-5 sp 2 rounds below; ch 4, dc in next 4 dc, ch 4, Cl in next ch-3 sp, ch 5, sk next Cl, Cl in next ch-3 sp, ch 4] 3 times; join with slip st in top of beginning ch.
Round 7: Ch 3, dc in next 3 dc, ch 2, 3 sc in next sc, ch 2, dc in next 4 dc, ch 8, sk next ch-4 sp, sk next Cl, (sc, ch 10, sc) in next ch-5 sp, ch 8, sk next Cl, sk next ch-4 sp, [dc in next 4 dc, ch 2, 3 sc in next sc, ch 2, dc in next 4 dc, ch 8, sk next ch-4 sp, sk next Cl, (sc, ch 10, sc) in next ch-5 sp, ch 8, sk next Cl, sk next ch-4 sp] 3 times; join with slip st in top of beginning ch.
Round 8: Ch 3, dc in next 3 dc, sk next ch-2 sp, sk next sc, Cl in next sc (center sc of 3-sc group), sk next sc, sk next ch-2 sp, dc in next 4 dc, ch 3, 4 dc in next ch-8 sp, ch 3, (4 dc, ch 3, 4 dc) in next ch-10 sp, ch 3, 4 dc in next ch-8 sp, ch 3, [dc in next 4 dc, sk next ch-2 sp, sk next sc, Cl in next sc, sk next sc, sk next ch-2 sp, dc in next 4 dc, ch 3, 4 dc in next ch-8 sp, ch 3, (4 dc, ch 3, 4 dc) in next ch-10 sp, ch 3, 4 dc in next ch-8 sp, ch 3] 3 times; join with slip st in top of beginning ch. Fasten off.
FINISHING
Arrange squares into a long strip and whip stitch edges together.
Edging
With RS facing, join yarn with slip st in corner ch-3 sp to work along short edge.
Round 1: [Work picot in corner ch-3 sp, [14 dc in next ch-3 sp, picot in next ch-3 sp, 14 dc in next Cl, picot in next ch-3 sp, 14 dc in next ch-3 sp, picot in corner ch-3 sp, *14 dc in next ch-3 sp, picot in next ch-3 sp, 14 dc in next Cl, picot in next ch-3 sp, 14 dc in next ch-3 sp**, picot in seam between squares; rep from * along long edge, ending at **] twice; join with slip st in first sc. Fasten off.
Using yarn needle, weave in all ends.
Fringes
Cut 100 strands of yarn about 16"/40.5 cm long. Hold 10 strands together and fold in half. Using crochet hook, *insert hook from WS to RS into end of scarf pull through fold of strands (loop), insert ends into loop and pull tight against edge; repeat from * attaching 5 fringes evenly spaced along end of scarf. Repeat on other end of scarf. Trim fringes to approx. 7"/18 cm long.
Subscribe to:
Posts (Atom)